Kutná Hora is an old silver town about an hour from Prague, and a good deal quieter than the Old Town. Most people come for the Sedlec Ossuary, the chapel decorated with human bones, and for St Barbara’s Cathedral.

Start at Sedlec if you can, because the chapel is small and fills up quickly; thirty to forty-five minutes there is enough. From there, walk or take a short ride into the old town, have a coffee before the cathedral and save your meal for afterwards.

St Barbara’s is the heart of the day, so give it the better part of an hour, then wander without a list. People tend to go wrong in one of two ways: treating the town as nothing more than the ossuary, or cramming in too many extra churches.

Opening hours change in winter, and the town is hilly, so wear sensible shoes. When the train brings you back to Prague, Maiselova 8 is open until 22:00.